I was wrong! For years
I've been saying “there's no such thing as Scottish cuisine,
there's just sheep guts and oatmeal (referring to haggis)”. Boy
was I wrong!! Contemporary Scottish cuisine is right up there with
the best of the best!
Traditional Scottish Breakfast -- eggs, toast, slice of haggis, bacon, beans and a Scottish pancake. This is what Scottish cuisine used to be -- stick to your ribs and last all day, but not very fancy.
We had fabulous meals
everywhere we went, from simple steak & mushroom pie and bangers &
mash in a chain pub, through lots of local seafood, to potted rabbit
(which I'd only heard of). Lanark White cheese, Heather Honey,
Aberdeen Butteries, Tiffin Cake, and Rhubarb Fool, oh my!
Classic Pub Grub -- Steak & Mushroom Pie with Chips
Classic Pub Grub -- Bangers & Mash
A village "deli" serving local cheeses, meats, drinks, and a variety of sandwiches and sweets made with local ingredients
Our first night
in-country, in the Glasgow suburb of Paisley, we went to dinner at a
local Italian restaurant with our friends Fiona and Toby, who'd
driven North from England to spend a couple days with us. For a tiny
restaurant that probably didn't seat forty people, the food was
outstanding! Not at all like the Italian-American food we've come to
expect in America. Because it was “odd dish out” on an Italian
menu and it was our first meal in Scotland, I just had to have
the Haggis appetizer – served with gravy and a sunny-side egg on
toast:
Haggis and an egg on toast as an appetizer!
Sally had this beautiful and very tasty Salmon with shrimp and mixed vegetables
The next day we drove across the country to Edinburgh (175 miles). From our AirBnb we could see the Royal Yacht Britannia, now a tourist attraction. That night we ate at King's Wark, a highly rated pub-restaurant where I sampled Potted Rabbit and mixed seafood cakes while Sally had the Salmon plate.
Potted Rabbit with pickled beetroot and cornichons
Mixed Seafood Cakes with micro greens and a small salad
Sally's Salmon entree
While Fiona and Toby went
back south to go to work, Sally's other girlhood friend Tracey and
her husband Ian picked us up in Edinburgh and took us for a whirlwind
tour of The Borders – the long (175 mile) narrow (20-40mile) strip
of 17th century no man's land between England and
Scotland, where both Sally's and my ancestors hailed from. This
rolling landscape, punctuated by higher, sharper hills is the
'breadbasket' of modern Scotland, source of meat, vegetables and
grains.
Then Ian and Tracey took
us up through the highlands to the northeast coast on the North Sea
where we stayed for a few days and traipsed among the fishing
villages along the coast there.
Although we didn't have
any, we drove through the village of Cullen, home of Cullen Skink,
a quintessential thick Scottish soup of smoked haddock, potatoes,
onions and milk. The Cullen Bay Hotel hosts the annual Cullen Skink
Championship cook-off every November. I was very tempted to enter,
but would have had to come back in November for the cook-off!
Last night in Scotland,
again in Glasgow, we had dinner at a small but eclectic restaurant
called Fanny Trollope's. I had their seared pork fillet, with an
apple, leek & Stornoway black pudding filled sausage roll,
buttery mash potatoes, a Parma ham crisp, and a calvados lyonnaise
coule. Sally had an outstanding squash soup and salmon. We finished the evening by sharing a Rhubarb Fool!
Lots of other adventures
that aren't really germane here. We had a fabulous holiday! Lots of
wonderful food, too, but enough for now. Let's cook!
Mustard Crusted Salmon
Inspired by the wonderful
salmon we experienced on our trip. In case you didn't catch it, Sally really likes salmon... While farmed salmon is the
sustainable choice, nothing really beats the texture and flavor of
wild caught fish which has had to struggle its whole life to survive.
Farmed fish, by comparison is soft and insipid...
Preheat your oven to 300F.
1/4 cup Mayonnaise or Skyr
yogurt
3 Tbsp stone ground or
other strong Mustard, to taste
1 Tbsp Lemon juice
optional - Panko
Stir the ingredients
together. Line a baking sheet with baking paper or parchment, and
place your fillets on the paper, skin side down. Spoon or brush the
mustard mixture on the fillets and spread it out roughly 1/4”
thick. Bake the fish for 15 minutes. For more of a crust, switch
over to Broil and cook another 5 minutes or so. I topped the mustard
mixture with sprinkle of Panko, thinking it would crisp up; but no
luck. Tasty though.
Next time I'll mix the panko in with the skyr-mustard mixture.
Next time I'll mix the panko in with the skyr-mustard mixture.
Avocado & Sardine
Toast
We've been reading about
Avocado Toast, one of the current “in” foods. Sally found a
recipe for avocado toast topped with sardines. No, sardines aren't
my cuppa tea, so I had something else for dinner that night, but she
thought the meal was splendid – simple, inexpensive and filling.
She had the leftovers for her lunch the next day.
2 cans Sardines in oil
2 Hass Avocados, ripe, not
hard, mashed
1/4 cup EVOO
2 Tbsp minced Flat Leaf
Parsley
2 Tbsp White Wine Vinegar
Red Pepper flakes to taste
4 slices multigrain bread
Mix the oil, vinegar,
parsley and pepper flakes together and marinate the sardines in the
mixture for at least 2 hours.
Toast the bread and spread
it with mashed avocado. Top with marinated sardines and dive right
in!
Raspberry
Fool
You're nobody's Fool if
you make this for dessert!
8oz box of fresh
Raspberries (or blackberries, blueberries, strawberries, etc.)
1 pint of warm Custard
You can use that Jell-O
stuff, but we prefer Bird's brand Custard, an English staple that you
can find in the international aisle at your local mega-mart. Tastes
much better. Less hassle to make.
Follow the package
instructions (2 Tbsp custard powder, 2 cups of milk, heat, combine,
simmer and stir, etc.) to make a 1 pint batch of custard. Before it
sets up, fold in the raspberries, and let it cool. Mostly. Warm is
good too. That's it.
Faux Haggis
I've made this for a
number of years, for those who want the flavors of traditional
Scottish haggis (lamb, oats, onion and a hint of nutmeg) but not the organ meats of the original... Think “poached
meatloaf”. If you like lamb, you'll love this!
1 lb ground Lamb (lamb
mince as they say across the pond)
1-1/2 cup steel cut
Oatmeal (not that flat stuff)
1 White Onion, diced
2 tsp ground Nutmeg
1 Egg, beaten
Smoosh (a highly technical
cooking term) the ingredients together in a large bowl, as if you are
making meatloaf, being sure to get everything evenly distributed.
Roll into a large log shape, and roll the log up in a couple layers
of cheesecloth. Tie off the ends of the cloth, and you have a sort
of giant sausage about 8” long and 4” in diameter.
Put a loaf pan on your largest stove burner turned to medium high and place the sausage in the pan. Add broth (chicken or vegetable if you can't find lamb broth), enough to come half way up the side of the log. Bring to a simmer, and cook – turning every 15 minutes or so – until the internal temperature reaches 145F. Allow it to cool a bit, then unwrap, slice and serve with HP Brown Sauce or Lizano (a similar sauce from Costa Rica of all places).
Not my faux haggis, but you get the idea...
Put a loaf pan on your largest stove burner turned to medium high and place the sausage in the pan. Add broth (chicken or vegetable if you can't find lamb broth), enough to come half way up the side of the log. Bring to a simmer, and cook – turning every 15 minutes or so – until the internal temperature reaches 145F. Allow it to cool a bit, then unwrap, slice and serve with HP Brown Sauce or Lizano (a similar sauce from Costa Rica of all places).
There
are several Scottish and Icelandic recipes that I'll be working up
and sharing with you over the next few weeks. Sláinte!
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